Smithit (Smith-Hit) Follow-Up

THE SMITHIT. Back in one of the very first posts on this site, in a write-up entitled “Truck 15’s House– Baltimore, MD” (under Stations and Places of Note), it was mentioned in passing that when Baltimore City Firefighter Jerry Smith (a very good friend, now with Rescue 1) was riding as acting officer on T15, he would throw a 3# rock hammer into his coat pocket! Why? Well, Balto City truck officers often find themselves responsible for doing forcible entry single-handedly and Jerry thought that if he was going to be doing it solo, he’d rather give up a little striking weight for more precision. Wallah(!): the rock hammer! OK, maybe being a little skeptical, several of us gave it a try– on entry props, car fires (under-hood access), residential calls, etc., and for these and for 90% (or more) of the stuff we do, the results were very impressive:

  • Tight quarters work is significantly enhanced.
  • Low to zero visibility work is enhanced (your kinesthetic abilities let you strike on-target with amazing precision and force).**
  • Reduced weight and bulk = increased agility and mobility.

NOTE** Most of the people we polled found this method preferable to being hit in the ribs by their “buddy,” flailing away in the dark with a 6-8# axe.

There is no question in my mind, but what using a 3-4 pound short-handled “hammer” for striking was a superior way for me (or any other officer?) to perform forcible entry. Several friends use the technique religiously (so to speak). The only question I have had was whether there might be a better way of transporting the striking tool?

That’s where the blog post rather casually tossed in a coupe of photos of methods we use to “marry” a short striking tool to a Halligan. Unfortunately, as noted by one reader– Mitchell Sowers– there wasn’t really enough detail included to be useful. So, the following is an effort to clarify the idea. You may also want to look at photos in the original post.  To implement the project shown, you’ll need some variation of the following parts:

  • a) A 3# – 4# striking tool of your choice.
  • b) The Halligan(s) with the thickest fork (at the crotch or bottom of the fork) that you plan to use with this method.
  • c) Two fender washers (wide diameter with a much smaller hole) for a 1/4″ bolt.
  • d) One nut, wing-nut, fiber lock-nut (my preference), or internally threaded handle (shown below) to fit the 1/4″ bolt you plan to use.
  • e) a light-weight coil spring, approximately 1″ long x 1/2″ diameter– not requiring too much pressure, since its strength doesn’t actually come into play.
  • A 1/4″ bolt long enough to thread through all of the above– with the nut in place– without compressing the spring much, if at all.
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The basic approach using a rock hammer (in this case, a 3 pound Estwing, which I think is the coolest looking tool on the planet): Here (starting on the opposite side, out of sight), a) the bolt runs through one washer, b) then through the crotch of the Halligan fork, c) then through the hammer, d) then (visible, again) through the spring (“squished” between the hammer and the next washer), then e) through the washer itself (the one shown is standard, not a fender washer), then f) the wing nut is adjusted to the correct tension for gripping the Halligan fork between the far-side washer and the hammer.
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The opposite side of the combination shown above.  Once you’ve adjusted the spring tension where you want it, the Halligan can be fairly easily released by tapping the tip of the forks on the ground or reinserted by pushing on the wing-nut end, sliding the Halligan under the fender washer and tapping the horn end of the Halligan on the ground. Little additional adjustment should be needed. Since all my Halligans are the same (we recommend MalvenWorks, right?), I eventually switched to a fiber lock nut instead of a wing-nut; less bulky, stays in adjustment, and less sharp to push on when spreading the washer for returning the Halligan.
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A sketched schematic of the parts and assembly outlined above. Several of us prefer a 3-1/2# flat head axe on a short handle over the hammer– it provides an additional wedge and works nicely for striking the squared shoulders provided on some Halligans when working in really tight quarters.

The following photos show of the many variations explored in developing this Halligan/Maul team of entry tools. Users who like Jerry’s original idea will undoubtedly find additional refinements to improve their compatibility.

RJ Doin FE w: SmithItCAPITAL FIRE TRAINING. If you find yourself fightin’ fire and hungry for training in the Northeastern U.S., be sure to take a look at Capital Fire Training’s web sight and schedule of class deliveries. The CFT Instructors have earned a very strong reputation for rigorous training with great attention to detail, especially in the areas of integrated engine/truck operation, up-to-date RIT and personal survival strategies, and fire officer development. Robert James (“RJ”) has been a particularly tireless supporter of our company’s efforts to get on its feet– hope you’ll help us return the favor.  Contact: capitolfiretraining.com

 

 

 

Prying– Pulling Tight-Fitting Hardware & Trim with the “Adze” (Hawk Head)

THE ADZE of the Hawk’s head is its primary pulling element. But, it also contributes to the Hawk’s prying versatility.  It easily pries apart routine wood trim and assemblies of all types. But, its thin, sharp rear-facing surface fits into the more awkward kinds of tight spaces presented by architectural fittings, such as metal grilles, cover panels, mounting brackets, etc. It is also useful for dealing with floor hardware such as metal thresholds, edging, carpet tack strips, etc.  Strike the adze’s flat back surface with an axe to drive its chisel edge behind exceptionally tight-fitting components,

Check the following for a concise printable summary:

Hawk Prying– Tight Hardware & Trim

MalvenWorks Tech

THIS SECTION IS STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT, however, as time permits we’ll add in pages that explain the functional intent and ideas for application of various tools and components.

WE’LL SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCES. If you have found methods, modifications or other ways of making your MalvenWorks tools more useful (whether for your specific purposes, or operations in general), send an e-mail line with description and (including one(s) of yourself).  We’ll get them posted in this section, ASAP.